The Cook Islands in a Coconut Shell

On board the Aitutaki Lagoon cruiser


Hiking in the Rarotongan jungle


View from my hut on the beach in Aitutaki


Aerial view of the Aitutaki Lagoon


Native Frangipani flower

Highlights of my time in the Cooks:

1) The lagoon cruise around Aitutaki, especially the views from One Foot Island
2) A sky full of new stars and constellations
3) The annotated scooter tour and hike around Rarotonga
4) The view from the Aquarius hostel (and the air conditioning!)
5) The sun, sand, and sea
6) Coconut, Papaya, Guava – and all the other delicious (and abundant) treats!

There is something quite enchanting about these islands in the South Pacific. I can’t quite single out one thing, but I am mesmerized by the sights and sounds of the crashing waves, the rise and fall of the tides, the breeze that carries the scent of the frangipani flower, the feel of the soft sand between my toes, the colour contrasts – jungle green, ocean blue, bone white, blood red -- even the sound of the roosters who have faithfully woken me each morning.

I’m watching everything – the waves, the clouds, the lizards stalking their prey, the ants marching, and the people going about their day. I’m really enjoying the slower pace of “island time.”

This is cyclone (hurricane) season in the South Pacific and yesterday I heard a first-hand recollection of the cyclones that hit the Cooks last year, causing severe damage that is still being repaired. It was difficult for me to imagine that the deck I was sitting on was once covered in water and victim to the forces of nature. The ocean spewed heavy rocks and coral onto the deck that took many hands and many hours to remove. But, as human history proves, disaster and repair are natural processes in our world, kind of like Newton’s fundamental laws.

I’ve obtained a driver’s license that permits me to operate a scooter in the Cooks, but I elected to tour around with another guest from my hotel who teaches English on Atiu. Dodging roosters, coconuts, and dogs, and other drivers are a reality of getting from A to B in the Cooks. I learned many things on my trip about the island because my guide was incredibly knowledgeable about the island and its past and present. Did you know coconuts falling from a tree are responsible for most deaths on the island? I also learned that the prison in Rarotonga runs on the honor system – that is, prisoners are expected to be on the grounds during the week to serve their time, but are permitted (in most cases) to leave for the weekend. Families are responsible for feeding their criminals and taking care of whatever they need. I wonder what Corrections Canada would think…

I love the people and pace of the Cooks, and my short stay here has left me with a taste for more. The whole notion of an island is a very romantic ideal, but I’ve also caught a glimpse of the not-so-romantic side of island life – such as expensive goods and energy, persistent humidity, ever-present mosquitoes, and the lurking threat of cyclones. In the end, it’s a beautiful place to experience and I’d encourage all of you to include it in your travel plans at some point.

The sun and sea have recharged my mind, body, and soul, and I feel ready to move on to Christchurch and my new teaching life at Avonside.

‘Aere ra from the Cooks…

L.