The Earth Makes Music for Those Who Listen

I hope you're all enjoying following along in my travels. I’ve been thinking about how my words are received, and I’m doing my best to make this a multi-sensory experience. Pi said, "better to picture it in your head if you want to feel it," however, if you truly want to experience the sights, sounds, smells, tastes, and other sensations, you’ve got to splurge on the plane ticket. Trust me, it’s worth it.

An open ear would be alert to the cicadas making their loud, shrill droning noise (created by the vibration of two membranes on their abdomen); the barking of the seals as they play on the warm rocks; the Westerlies whipping through the vineyard; and the sound of rolling rocks as the tides crash on a rocky beach. Stopping to listen has been one of my favourite things to do as I find myself in new places.

Kaikoura is a coastal town, very touristy, with magnificent scenery. We climbed the switchback path to the top of the cliff, reaching the most eastern point of the peninsula where all the eye can see is open water and beautiful coastline. The seals bark below, and there are whales, sharks, and dolphins in these waters.

The black pebble beach at Kaikoura is one of my favourite beaches so far, with its spectacular view of the ocean and calming ambiance. We entered a secluded part of the beach with a seemingly never-ending coastline which had a very untouched feeling. The tide was fairly strong and my aunt and I got soaked up to our mid-thighs. I stopped to look back at our footprints just in time to see the tide wash them away, as if we had never been there. I had a very Buddhist moment, thinking of the impermanence of things and the potency of memories over photographs.

The dimensions and panoramas are quite breathtaking, and throughout my backseat gazing I’ve been thinking about the power of seeing things for the first time. Some things are very familiar, and then all of a sudden we’ll turn a corner and see a whole new scene, as if we flipped the page of a storybook that tells the tale of distant lands. The trees (coniferous and deciduous), shrubs, and grasses that cover the hills and mountains are all different, and you can be looking at three ranges nestled together, but each peak will radiate a very different flavour. Also, the road kill here is different – hedgehogs, possums, skunks, and other little critters.

Sharing these moments with family has been a memorable experience in itself. Plus, they can confirm my recent bungee jumping experience, which was keenly followed by a successful tandem skydiving dare. Don’t worry mom, I’m still alive.

Thanks for reading.

L.

Waipara, Wine, and Westerlies

I’ve escaped the city for a few days on a road trip with my aunt and uncle, Pat and Gary, who are visiting New Zealand for the second time. They were keen to take their favourite niece to Waipara, Hanmer Springs, and Kaikoura, and I was happy to let them!

We’ve stopped to spend the night with family friends, Dick and Vivian Pharis, fellow Canadians and part-time New Zealanders. They have a beautiful home on their Torlesse vineyard in Waipara, and the quiet stillness of the country was a welcome treat.

Waipara is situated in a valley, and the Westerlies rival even the strongest Lethbridge Chinooks. The wind almost knocked me off my feet, not kidding. I remember walking to school one day in Lethbridge and watching a kid’s bike fly into the coulee; I’m sure these Westerlies would have lifted a Harley. Nevertheless, the grapes still grow. Torlesse wines can be purchased in Canada, so next time you’re at the liquor store try some Sauvignon Blanc or some tasty Cabernet/Merlot. Check out www.torlesse.co.nz for more information.

After Waipara we ventured to Hanmer Springs for a dip in the famous hot springs. My memories of Banff and Fairmont are a bit foggy, but I’m sure Hanmer has the nicest hot springs facility. We spent the night and then took off for a short drive to coastal Kaikoura.

The road to Kaikoura was all but flat and straight. As the Willis Brothers would say, “soft shoulders and dangerous curves…” characterized this scenic leg of our trip. The valleys and sloping cliffs would be suitable for a racecar driver’s warm-up, and the narrow roads (with little or no shoulders) get even narrower when you approach the many one-way single lane bridges where you’ve got to be alert to the right-of-way rules so you don’t get caught in a head-on with another vehicle. The curves hug the hills, and I found gravity acting very strangely on my body. Thank goodness I’m not prone to carsickness.

My uncle and Dick went on a fishing trip and caught loads of perch, blue cod, and the delicious crayfish (lobster) above. We had a terrific feast at the Pharis’s and I tried my first swig of Chartreuse (a liqueur produced by Carthusian monks in the world’s largest liqueur ageing cellars – the Chartreuse Caves in Voiron France). Only two monks are allowed to macerate and distill the ingredients (130 herbs), thereby keeping the recipe VERY secret.

I am taken aback by the varied scenery on such a short drive. I know that Canada has a lot to offer in terms of scenery, but you’ve often got to drive quite a distance. In this respect, New Zealand seems to be a mini-Canada, with loads of scenery compacted into a country that would fit into Alberta about 3.5 times. Some of the hillsides look as soft as Merino wool, and some look more like sand dunes from afar. There are roads along the mountain side that resemble the infamous mark of Zorro, and I now realize that Albertans are spoiled with wide roads and flat prairies as New Zealand offers quite a different driving experience. I am actively training my mind to recognize the beauty in things, and I catch myself really enjoying things I am seeing for the first time.

Until the next post…

L.

296 Barbadoes Street

I do not feel that the distance of the Pacific has settled in yet...perhaps globalization is keeping me optimistic and very in-touch with all of you. The fact that this blog exists is standing proof of a very changed world.

This is the first time I have lived in a house that is more than 25 years old. It has some charming features, such as a hardwood floors, high ceilings, and a really cool bathroom floor, and some not-so-charming features such as a lingering (and unidentified smell), and a considerable distance between the toilet room and the shower room.

My bedroom is quite big (in fact, it puts all my former rooms to shame…), and I’ve got a lot of natural light. Plus, whoever lived here before me had a TV, which is great for catching the early morning news while I get ready for the day.

I’ve got 5 roommates at the moment – Patrick from the Netherlands, Margit from Germany, Ning and Li from Taiwan, and Cyrielle from France. Lindsay will be moving in next week when Cyriele moves on for the next leg of her NZ travels. We’ve got a good dining room table for some post-school debriefings.

The backyard is shared by three houses, so we’ve always got someone out on the porch. The deck is complimented with an excessively large beanbag chair, and the barbeque is handy for summertime cuisine. The lawn and garden are maintained by a hired gardener, so no lawnmowers to fuss with.

Central Christchurch is VERY close, about a 5-minute walk to the Cathedral Square. At the moment there is an International Busker’s Festival taking place (note: a “busker” is a street performer). I’ve seen some pretty amazing talent on my walks through the square, including a rather mind-boggling acrobatic demonstration by some Australians pretending to be Russians.

The Christchurch Public Library is also about 10 minutes walk from my house, and it appears to be a well-stocked and staffed facility. I imagine I will be spending some time wandering through the stacks during my down time.

The other fabulous feature of this city are the coffee houses. There are some truly comfortable places to enjoy a flat white, latte, or an extensive list of other beverages. My favourite so far is a place on the corner of Worcester Street and Latimer Square. I can come here with my computer and work on my blog!

Anyway, that covers my immediate surroundings – I’m sure more details will trickle through later postings.

Thanks for reading,

L.

Kia Ora from Tomorrow

(In the Cook Islands they say “Kia Orana,” and in New Zealand they greet you with “Kia Ora” -- kind of like saying “Aloha” or any kind of welcoming “hello”).

I am now officially in Christchurch, writing from the other side of the International Date Line. January 20th evaporated before my eyes, and I won’t be recovering the lost day until my travels home in August. I was sad to leave the humidity of the Cooks, and since I’ve been in NZ my skin has been dry and my tan is fading fast…

The travel gods were smiling on me this trip – we had great skies and I exercised my powers of persuasion to escape what would have been nearly $400 in excess baggage weight charges. I think my success with the Air New Zealand agent can be attributed to two things: 1) the easy-going island attitude, and 2) sympathy for me because I’ve been hauling this stuff by myself for a very long journey.

I arrived in Christchurch on Sunday (Saturday for most of you), and I’ve been a busy bee getting settled and making my new nest at my new house. Originally, I was supposed to live at 266 Gloucester Street, but upon arrival I was informed that I’d be living at 296 Barbadoes Street. We share a backyard, so the rest of the Canadian teaching cohort won’t be far. Lindsay will be moving in to my house next week, and Chris and Shannon will likely be sharing another house. We’ll be doing our best to get together for meals and teaching dialogue.

Tomorrow I will be going back downtown to check out some more of the World Busker Festival, and then if the weather is nice, I’ll be walking to Avonside Girls’ High School to time the walk and see what the bus back home has to offer…

So far I’ve made some interesting observations about the slight differences between the cultures and Canada and New Zealand (enough to go from “Eh” to “Zed”):

a) they drive on the opposite side of the road. How very James Bond-ish!
b) it is not uncommon to see people walking around with no shoes.
c) the pedestrian crossing alerts sound like intense techno music.
d) there is little or no ozone layer over NZ, so sunscreen is a must. The Cancer Society also sells sunscreen, which directly profits research.
e) they call their convenience stores “dairys”
f) you order your coffee differently. A “flat white” (1/2 espresso, 2/3 milk, but the way the milk is poured is different than a traditional latte), or “long black” (2 shots of espresso, over hot water – but the order is important, water first THEN espresso so that the crema doesn’t “burn”) are very Kiwi.
g) Kiwi’s drink a lot of instant coffee. YUCK!
h) Kiwi's call them "mozzies" not mosquitoes or "skeeters"
i) People park on their front lawns.
j) you “hire” (as opposed to “rent”) a video, car, golf clubs, or other tangibles.
k) sheep are to New Zealand as cows are to Alberta. But MUCH cuter.
l) spelling: “tire” (Canada) to “tyre” (New Zealand)
m) slot machines in NZ are called “Pokies”
n) things are generally more expensive. Post It notes cost a ridiculous amount, something like $6-$8 a pad! Don’t even get me started on the cost of a decent lipstick!
o) prostitution is legal in Christchurch.
p) Comet McNaught is lighting the night sky, and won’t be seen again for 85,000 years.
q) Whittaker’s chocolate is to die for! Much better than Cadbury, and made right here in NZ!
r) Kiwi’s call hockey “ice hockey” because “hockey” means field hockey.
s) Rugby, cricket, and netball are the nation’s favourite sports.
t) No tipping in NZ!
u) North American DVDs don’t work on NZ machines.
v) Mistaking a Kiwi for an Aussie is like calling a Canadian an American.
w) “Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateaturipukakapikimaungahoronukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu” is the name of a hill in Hawke’s Bay, NZ. Check it out in the Guinness Book.
x) The pharmacy is called the “chemist”.
y) Don’t say “fanny pack” here unless you want to be accosted.
z) And they also pronounce “z” “zed,” not “zee”

I’m am now on a first-name basis with Rosie and Anna at “Andrea Biani” – a shoe store on Cashel and Colombo. Are you really all that surprised? I met with these delightful ladies because Anna is the daughter of the manager at the Paradise Inn on Rarotonga, and well, naturally the conversation hit the topic of shoes.

Today we went to the Pac-n-Save (NZ version of SuperStore, and also known in our household as “The Big Yellow Amusement Park), and I did my first big grocery run. Whole wheat pasta doesn’t seem to be popular enough to stock, neither is tofu. Asking for Veggie Ground Round was like asking for an ice cream stand in the Kalahari.

February in NZ is like September in Canada -- TV shows included. I felt like I had seen the future when I discovered that all their TV shows are a season behind. It is going to be very difficult to NOT spoil the cliffhangers in Grey's Anatomy, Prison Break, and Desperate Housewives. The obvious downside to this is that all of you are going to be watching the most recent episodes while I catch them for the second time. I think I am going to give up on TV and enjoy the city instead.

I thank all of you for your patience as I piece together my experiences, and I hope you haven’t been cursing me when you see that nothing has been added for a while – I assure you I am alive and well, and all my typing fingers are in tact (but on temporary holiday).

If you are on Alberta time, you can easily figure out Christchurch time by subtracting 4 hours from your current time, and then add one day. If you want to call or write, email me and I’ll send you the proper details.

Thanks for reading,

Larissa

The Cook Islands in a Coconut Shell

On board the Aitutaki Lagoon cruiser


Hiking in the Rarotongan jungle


View from my hut on the beach in Aitutaki


Aerial view of the Aitutaki Lagoon


Native Frangipani flower

Highlights of my time in the Cooks:

1) The lagoon cruise around Aitutaki, especially the views from One Foot Island
2) A sky full of new stars and constellations
3) The annotated scooter tour and hike around Rarotonga
4) The view from the Aquarius hostel (and the air conditioning!)
5) The sun, sand, and sea
6) Coconut, Papaya, Guava – and all the other delicious (and abundant) treats!

There is something quite enchanting about these islands in the South Pacific. I can’t quite single out one thing, but I am mesmerized by the sights and sounds of the crashing waves, the rise and fall of the tides, the breeze that carries the scent of the frangipani flower, the feel of the soft sand between my toes, the colour contrasts – jungle green, ocean blue, bone white, blood red -- even the sound of the roosters who have faithfully woken me each morning.

I’m watching everything – the waves, the clouds, the lizards stalking their prey, the ants marching, and the people going about their day. I’m really enjoying the slower pace of “island time.”

This is cyclone (hurricane) season in the South Pacific and yesterday I heard a first-hand recollection of the cyclones that hit the Cooks last year, causing severe damage that is still being repaired. It was difficult for me to imagine that the deck I was sitting on was once covered in water and victim to the forces of nature. The ocean spewed heavy rocks and coral onto the deck that took many hands and many hours to remove. But, as human history proves, disaster and repair are natural processes in our world, kind of like Newton’s fundamental laws.

I’ve obtained a driver’s license that permits me to operate a scooter in the Cooks, but I elected to tour around with another guest from my hotel who teaches English on Atiu. Dodging roosters, coconuts, and dogs, and other drivers are a reality of getting from A to B in the Cooks. I learned many things on my trip about the island because my guide was incredibly knowledgeable about the island and its past and present. Did you know coconuts falling from a tree are responsible for most deaths on the island? I also learned that the prison in Rarotonga runs on the honor system – that is, prisoners are expected to be on the grounds during the week to serve their time, but are permitted (in most cases) to leave for the weekend. Families are responsible for feeding their criminals and taking care of whatever they need. I wonder what Corrections Canada would think…

I love the people and pace of the Cooks, and my short stay here has left me with a taste for more. The whole notion of an island is a very romantic ideal, but I’ve also caught a glimpse of the not-so-romantic side of island life – such as expensive goods and energy, persistent humidity, ever-present mosquitoes, and the lurking threat of cyclones. In the end, it’s a beautiful place to experience and I’d encourage all of you to include it in your travel plans at some point.

The sun and sea have recharged my mind, body, and soul, and I feel ready to move on to Christchurch and my new teaching life at Avonside.

‘Aere ra from the Cooks…

L.

Aitutaki

On One Foot Island with a Steinlager. Exile Island in the background.


The Air Rarotonga plane ride from Rarotonga to Aitutaki was approximately 45 minutes long, and carried about 15 passengers. Aitutaki is famous for its pristine lagoon (a lagoon is separated from the ocean by a low sandbank or coral reef, which means that the waters inside the lagoon are ideal for swimming and snorkeling because in most cases no big creatures (sharks!) can get in). Also, the current is much calmer so it is like swimming in a huge pool. I’ve spent 3 nights on Aitutaki…including one very interesting night that made me appreciate the modern world much more than I might have to this point…

Here is an excerpt from my journal about my one BAD experience on Aitutaki:

I’ve spent the last hour looking through my Lonely Planet guide and travel brochures to find a way to get out of here. Reasons to leave:

1) the beach hut is MUCH less glamourous and adventurous than it sounds. It is $45/night for a reason.
2) Mosquitoes, geckoes, flies...and a cockroach IN my bed.
3) Can’t see anything (writing with my only light – a mini-booklight).
4) The bathroom/shower was by far the most disgusting experience I’ve ever endured, and is likely the most negative highlight of my trip for the following reasons:

a. The taps have no handles, and the cold one was the only one that would budge;
b. The drain backed up, so I was ankle-deep in cold, dirty water;
c. I had two cockroaches the size of small children floating in the back-up;
d. Then I had two geckoes try to hop in for a bath;
e. The window had no cover, so anyone could see in. Opted to wear my bathing suit;
f. Ants – EVERYWHERE. Most concentrated around some sort of carcass that they were devouring in the corner of the shower room;
g. No place to hang/place my things;
h. No tiles on the floor, just plywood covered in some plastic.
i. The toilet room was very sketchy, and building a nest wasn’t an option because there was no toilet paper;
j. Etc.

5) Disgusting bathroom is very far away. I’d rather pee my pants. I’m sure others have done so.
6) They ran out of water and I am thirsty.
7) Despite the advertised bug netting, there are several holes inviting creatures of the night into my humble abode. I caught some kind of awful bug trying to burrow itself into me.

Basically, this was not the island paradise experience I was expecting.

With a little swipe of the MasterCard I got the hell out of there, and upgraded my room to a beachfront hut with running water, a kitchen, bathroom, and private deck with a great view of the lagoon. Much better. However, the upgrade was more than I had budgeted, so I opted to leave the island a day early. I’m glad I stayed to enjoy the lagoon cruise – an unforgettable experience.

The day-long lagoon cruise had several highlights. First, we stopped at Akaiami, a motu (small island) where there are some beach huts worth $600/NZD a night! This is where the Survivor exiles were sent once their crew voted them off. From Akaiami we sailed a bit further to an ideal spot for snorkeling and I saw some enormous clams! The corals and fish were incredible. While we were snorkeling our hosts/band/chefs were preparing a delicious lunch with fresh fruit, salads, and BBQ fish and chicken. We sailed along to One Foot Island where I had my passport stamped, sipped a cold Steinlager while circling the island, and stopped to watch some of the filming for the British version of Survivor, “Shipwrecked.”

I have officially lost all faith in reality TV (not that I had much in the first place); once I saw the cue cards and the proximity to the outside world any intrigue evaporated. The show(s) have been good for the Cooks in many ways, boosting employment and the economy, however I think the saddest realization came when I was walking around the island and noticed all the traces of humanity…not only the trading post that sells beer and food, but the cigarette butts and garbage. The Americans started here, and the Brits are just about finished, and next up are the French and Germans who are going to settle in for their own versions of the “stranded on a desert island” type show. During my travels I met one of the contestants of “Shipwrecked”, and I also visited with the sound mixer, so I’ve learned some of the fascinating inside. Trust me, it’s all as fake as you can imagine.

With all this said, I still think that Aitutaki had some of the most spectacular views. I’ll never forget the infant palm tree in the middle of the water, elevated by a sandbar, just begging for me to swim up for a visit.

On the way back to the main island our multi-talented entertainers had a great show in store for us – hermit crab races! Unbeknownst to us passengers our crew had gathered 12 hermit crabs from the beach while we were exploring. They set up an elaborate obstacle course and then collected bets – would you believe I won! I never win, but I made $12 on the most unsuspecting crab who had a great desire to escape the confines of some flippers and rope. I was even asked to blow the horn to start the next race (see the posted photo album).

Motus, reality TV, Steinlager, palm trees, BBQ lunch, snorkeling, and hermit crabs --now imagine all of this taking place in waters so turquoise and clear that you have to remind yourself you are still on Earth.

I met a really nice Kiwi couple on vacation at the Paradise Cove. They invited me to their patio to watch the rest of the sunset over a cold beer (which turned into a few, which turned into some Malibu...). The sunset was beautiful and the beer was refreshing, and after some singing (including my butchering of "Oh Canada") and stories I was ready for the short stumble to my beach hut.

One more post from the Cooks to come…

L.

Snorkle & Sun -- a beautiful day at Muri Beach

WOW! I feel like I've never left the technological world. It has been one of my goals to stay away from my computer while I vacation in the Cook Islands...I wonder if using someone else's computer counts? Oh well, it's late and extremely dark, so not much else to do but go to sleep.

Today was absolutely beautiful! The sun was shining on this side of Rarotonga (the west side had rain all day! Kind of funny because the island itself is fairly small). Had a great snorkle today -- probably swam 5 kilometers in total from one side of the lagoon to the other, then across the middle and a zig-zag from tip ot bottom. Saw some fish, coral, cucumbers (sea, that is!), and lots of white sand. Sat on the beach and read my book -- The Life of Pi. The book should be interesting as it tells the story of a young boy who crossed the Pacific. I'm only a few pages in, so can't tell you too much now.

Aside from fishes and cucumbers, I also caught a glimpse of some other Cook Island wildlife -- a cockroach and a gecko! The cockroach took me by surprise, since I've never seen one before. Kinda gross.

Last night was the island night and were entertained by traditional and modern Cook Island drumming and dancing. The performers were fantastic, and I got some great video shots. After the main show was over, the club (The Staircase) turned into a regular night club and played music I've been hearing in Canada for the past few months. I had no idea Justin Timberlake was bringing Sexy Back to the Cook Islands. It's pretty sexy as it is, I think.

Tomorrow I switch accommodation and spend two nights at Paradise Inn which is closer to the main town of Avarua. Not sure if I'll have much luck in town since shops close early on Saturday, and are closed on Sunday. I'll be in town until Monday afternoon when I fly to Aitutaki for 5 days. Vara's Beach House has been a very comfortable hostel accommodation -- lots of space, young people, and many things to do within walking distance. The beach is (arguably) the nicest beach on the island.

All for now...stay tuned for some of my stunning picture posts!

L.

Where are the Cook Islands?

Had an amazing swim in the lagoon this afternoon – and I was thinking of all of you stuck in school, snow, work, and otherwise less enjoyable situations. I’m enjoying it enough for all of you!

It is absolutely pouring rain outside right now…but the sound of the rain and the breeze is, like the intense humidity, very appreciated. It also makes for a nice guilt-free interlude for writing.

The Cook Islands are situated in the South Pacific, northeast of New Zealand, east of Fiji, and southeast of Tahiti. Pull out a map – there are lots of cool places in this part of the world.

As you might have suspected by the title of the country, the Cook Islands are indeed a group of islands. Two sets of islands – Northern and Southern groups -- are scattered over an empty ocean the size of Western Europe. The former consists of Rarotonga, Aitutaki, ‘Aitu, Ma’uke, Mitiaro, Mangaia, and Palmerston while the latter consists of Manihiki, Rakahanga, Penrhyn, Pukapuka, Nassau, and Suwarrow. The groups are fairly far apart, and it costs quite a bit to get to (and around) the northern group.

Here are some fast facts about the Cook Islands, from Lonely Planet:

- Estimated population in 2001: 14,990
- Estimated number of pigs in the Cook Islands: 16,000 (have yet to see a pig, but I’ve seen LOTS of dogs and chickens!)
- Ratio of tourists to residents: 5:1
- Annual hours of sunshine: 2246
- Many Cook Islanders are fluent in both English and Cook Islands Maori, and the country has a high literacy rate (99%!)
- A litre of gas costs approximately NZ$1.90

Main industries are tourism and in the northern group there are pearl fields for the domestic sale and exportation of black pearls.

The cultural scene in the Cook Islands is of Polynesian descent, but is more appropriately recognized as its own distinct Maori culture (New Zealand also has a Maori culture). As you might suspect, the culture is very laid back and even humourous (they were telling jokes over the intercom at the airport upon our arrival). Dance and music play a large part in this colourful culture, and if all goes well with the rain, I’ll be enjoying an island night later on. More on culture and legends/mythology to come…

Meitaki,

L.

Safely in Rarotonga

Kia Orana!

In less than 24 hours I’ve had my feet in the Pacific twice. Yesterday, I dipped my toes in the water and looked west from Hermosa Beach, CA, and today I look east towards all I left behind. Modern transportation really is quite astonishing.

I made it safely to the Cook Islands this morning sometime around 9:00am (local time in Rarotonga). I have absolutely no idea what time it is right now because: a) I’ve crossed about 3 or 4 times zones and, b) I took my watch off so I wouldn’t ruin it in the water. Who cares anyways – I’m on Island Time now.

The 9.5-hour flight from LAX to Rarotonga was really comfortable. I ended up with a row of seats to myself, so I stretched out and slept until we prepared for landing in Papeete, Tahiti. We refueled and stretched in Papeete, and let some people off to make room for more. It was raining but the aerial view was spectacular. I tried to buy something at Duty Free, but my credit card wouldn’t work – very scary (it works in the Cooks). A bottle of water cost me $6NZD (approx. $4-4.5CDN), which is fairly expensive.

The next leg of the trip was short – 2 hours between Papeete and Rarotonga. Similar weather so far, kind of on-and-off rain but it’s still extremely warm. The humidity is a treat for this Alberta girl. I got off the plane and was taken aback by the betwitching beauty of this island – lush tropical rainforest and craggy mountains (they’re no Rockies, but they’re bigger than I expected) on one side, and a clear, turquoise lagoon on the other – and bone-white sand!. Absolutely breathtaking, even under the overcast sky. A brief patch of blue sky made the water even brighter and more inviting. A swim is on the agenda for this afternoon.

I’ve stopped to write part of this entry by hand at a local café/deli, just around the corner from the road to Vara’s Beach House where I am staying. I’m enjoying a huge couscous salad with lots of vegetables and spices. Also, it appears as if Cook Islanders can make a very good latte! A couple of fellow travelers from the van ride from Avarua airport joined me and we witnessed a bit of a fender bender between a tourist and a local. It was shocking of course, but also kind of eerie because I had just been thinking about how strange it is seeing people drive on the opposite side of the road. Glad that no one was hurt, and also glad that it wasn’t me.

I’m considering renting a scooter once I get to my next hostel, and hopefully the rain stops by then. Scooters dominate this island, and it seems as though everyone has one – from thirteen-year-olds to ninety-year old men and women. They look like a lot of fun, and they can be rented for about $13/day. The main island road circles the island and is approximately 22km.

At the airport I met up with a bunch of people who are also staying at Vara’s – they are from all over: Holland, Switzerland, Australia, England. So far I am the only Canadian. I’m heading to an Island Night tonight with the two girls from London and the guy in the room next to mine (from England/Texas/Australia – very interesting!). I’m probably going to need a nap very soon.

Anyway, I’ve paid for some internet minutes, but I’m writing this on my MacBook and going to try to transfer the file via USB. If it works, I’ll post more updates soon (including some of my handwritten journals from Los Angeles). Thank you, Mikey, for suggesting the photo uploader thingy (I’m sure that is its technical name) -- because of it I can share some of these picture with all of you.

Meitaki ma’ata for reading…

L.

California Soul

I chose this title for the blog post and the photo album because the song of the same title (by Marlena Shaw) often ran through my head as we explored the Greater Los Angeles area. So did “Beverly Hills” by Weezer, and “Santa Monica” by Theory of a Deadman. Plus, the Beach Boys ran through my mind a few times when the sun was shining on the surfers.

Crème de la Crepe is an amazing little café right around the corner from Heather’s house in Hermosa Beach. The restaurant is family owned and operated, and we’ve had the same waiter each time (and he’s adorable! His French accent is irresistible!). So far, we’ve been there for breakfast, lunch, and dessert. The Zidane (named after the French soccer player) is a mouthful of deliciousness – a mixture of bananas, strawberries, syrup (GOOD syrup), and a hefty portion of Nutella to top it off. My other favourite is an omelette with avocado, smoked salmon, and blue cheese! I can’t wait to get to a pan and some eggs in NZ!

I wandered to the beach and watched the seagulls and a few devout surfers. I shook my head in disgust at the skim of smog sitting on top of Los Angeles’s Pacific. Despite the heat and abundant ocean water, it is fairly dry here and my contacts have been glued to my eyeballs for the majority of my time in LA. However, the fresh ocean breeze is refreshing (considering Alberta is currently enduring some fierce blizzard conditions).

Some highlights from Los Angeles:

1) Heather and Kristen, my two new American friends!
2) Crème de la Crepe
3) Sunset Café and the drive to Malibu
4) Beverly Hills & Rodeo Drive
5) Favourite stores: the Costco-size shoe store, Sephora on Hollywood Boulevard, Target, The Apple Store, Loehmann’s.
And of course…
6) surviving Los Angeles traffic!

In less than 24 hours I will be staring at the Pacific again, but at that time I’ll be looking east. Keep checking for more…

L.

These Shoes Are Made for Walkin'

It was a beautiful day for strolling and shopping -- 26 degrees! The freeways were clear and the credit cards were ready for action.

Today I walked into heaven (or, my version of heaven). It looked like a shoe store that was a full city block long with store space the size of a Costco warehouse. For those of you who know this side of me, you know this situation already sounds like a cocktail for disaster. When we finally got to the register to pay for the new additions to our shoe collections, the cashier commented on our gaping jaws when we walked into the store. Busted! Looks like we weren't able to pull off the inconspicuous thing as well as we thought. In the end, got some great beach shoes and a dream pair of work shoes to walk the halls of Avonside with in less than 4 weeks.

Our adventures today had us on the LA transit system to LAX where we picked up our super-cheap rental car (a PT Cruiser! Can't seem to get away from those things!). Kudos to Carlee for braving the LA traffic. We had some lunch on Sunset, took some time driving around Beverly Hills and snapping our cameras every two seconds to capture some of the most amazing homes that exist in this city. Didn't have time to hang out with the 90210 gang at the Peach Pit...maybe next time.

Walked along Rodeo Drive and experienced a whole new world. The PT didn't quite fit in among the Bentleys, Aston Martins, Lotuses, and Rolls-Royces. Stopped in at Coach (where you can buy a $550 collar for your Maltese or Chihuahua), and a few other boutiques, and then just paid closer attention to the people who were walking the street. All I could think of was, "Toto, I don't think we're in Kansas anymore..."

Hollywood Boulevard was an interesting experience. First, you can only park for an hour which naturally hinders the potential for a stress-free tourist/shopping experience. Had a brief tour of Grumann's Chinese Theatre (the guy who pained the mural inside was the wise old man from Gremlins!), checked out some celebrity stars on the Walk of Fame, and capped off the time in Hollywood with a good hour in Sephora -- an entire store devoted to makeup and cosmetics. I was on sensory overload. They have absolutely everything you could or would want! But, since my bag already weighs 67lbs, I was very reasonable and only bought a couple essentials. Really.

Although we didn't see any celebrities today, we did see a crowd gathered outside Grumann's where Hillary Swank was in attendance for the dedication for her Walk of Fame star. It was kind of a coincidence, since the girls and I saw Freedom Writers last night at the theatre. Great teaching movie -- I dare say even better than Dangerous Minds. There are over 2300 stars on the Walk and apparently any celebrity can get a star on the Walk if they've got some accomplishments and $15,000. That's right -- they buy their own stars! Suckers...

Carlee and I headed down the Hermosa pier for a fantastic (and super cheap!) sushi feast and our waiter looked like Pedro from Napolean Dynamite. Hermosa is beautiful -- lots of neat restaurants, cafes, shops, and of course, a beautiful beach. More pictures to come.

Tomorrow is another full agenda. We're having crepes for breakfast at a cute little crape eatery around the corner, then we're going to take Kristen to the airport to catcher her flight to Austen. Carlee and I are heading back to Hollywood to finish the rest of the strip (because it got dark early tonight, and Hollywood Boulevard is a little sketchy once the sun goes down). We want to check out the Guiness World Records store/museum, Ripley's Believe It or Not! and a few other shops along the way...

We're planning to spend the afternoon along the Malibu coast, gawking at more billion dollar celebrity homes. We'll try not to get pulled over by the Malibu police on this oh-so-famous strip of celebrity pull-overs (the most recent being Mel Gibson) Honestly, they're not interested in us -- we're from Canada!

That's all for today...thanks for reading!

L.

Flight WS900 – With Service to Los Angeles

Here I am – for real – writing during the infant moments of this journey I have been dreaming of for so very long. It is still such a surreal feeling to be sitting here, in the Calgary International Airport, imagining that I will soon be in the air and officially beginning my travels. I suppose my journey has already begun, but this moment feels more real than anything I’ve experienced to this point.

I had butterflies this morning, and I was actively fighting the nerves, emotions, and anxieties. At the airport this morning tears came, and went…this is an adventure so they are tears of happiness. It’s hard to leave, but it is time to go. As I looked at my parents, and Jen, Erin, Tracy, and Lisa, I thought about how fortunate I am to have such a wonderful group to see me off, and seeing them in seven months will be a time to savor.

My plane is boarding, and I’m about to embark. Keep reading.

L.

If I Can Google It, I'm Not Packing It!

(I have a serious addiction to Google -- but honestly, who doesn't?)

- toothbrush - check
- NZ money - check
- OFF! (for those potentially pesky Cook Islands mosquitos) - check
- a very diverse collection of anti's (anti-inflammatory, anti-histamine, etc.) - check
- teaching clothes - check
- teaching materials (loads of Canadian content) - check
- laptop, camera, iPod, USB -- and everything else that screams "I can't live without megabytes - check
- LOTS of clean underwear - check
- reading material - check
- good-luck jade penguin - check

and for everthing else, there's MasterCard...right?

OK, so the realities of packing are quite frightening! Loading up one suitcase and a 60L backpack for 7 months abroad is proving to be challenging task. Plus, packing with all the airline restrictions and security precautions has me filling Ziploc bags like they're going out of style!

My parent's basement has become my packing headquarters -- with everything spread out for evaluation, contemplation, and subjection to the ultimate question: "do I really need this?" Sadly, my childhood POG collection is not going to be crossing the Pacific.

I've spent the last few days surrounded by all my junk. Really, how does a person accumulate so much stuff? I've got shelves upon shelves of books, music, and photo albums that have entertained and enlightened me -- and they are perhaps my most valued possessions. I'm very aware that once I return from my travels I will look at all these things through different eyes -- especially since I'll be fresh from a living-out-of-a-backpack experience.

My travels and purposes abroad vary -- girl time and sight-seeing in LA, rest and relaxation in the Cook Islands, teaching and travel in NZ, and low-budget student travel in SE Asia. Thus, my wardrobe has to suit different demands. I know this is hard to believe -- especially for those who know me so well -- but at the moment, I've only got 3 pairs of shoes in my bag. Okay, four...but still...VERY limited footwear options leaves me in a somewhat anxious state. Deep breath.


Over the past few days I've received lots of emails and read through the comments you've submitted, and I have to say, I'm touched. Keep the emails and blog comments coming -- they bring a smile to my borderline obsessive-compulsive email checking habits.

I marvel in the abilities of the Internet -- in fact, the very existence of this blog amazes me. It's so easy! I remember signing up for my first email account, in 1997, and at that time I was actively trying to recruit my friends to sign up too (so we could email each other about the latest episode of Beverly Hills 90210? Nothing too pressing in those days...). Now, 10 years later, my 88-year-old grandma is reading my blog and sending me "funnies" over email, or saying "hi" on MSN. I am hoping that my other grandparents will get a computer soon so they too can follow along with my Songs of the Open Road.

I find myself wondering how people communicated before Cyberspace? At times, when I was in the library (electronically) researching for a paper, I would stop to think about the former complexities of library science. Card catalogues? Psshaw! My sincere kudos to all the pre-internet graduate students who must have spent days in the library trying to find the right material for their dissertations.

On the same token, it is almost terrifying to think about how much we rely on megabytes. I imagine someday my children and grandchildren will wonder how my generation lived without teleporters. Beam me up, Scotty!


I'm so glad that you're all reading along, and I hope to keep my postings interesting so I don't lose you. I'm actually really enjoying the time to write and share this experience with all of you.

Back to the suitcases...

L.

New Year, New Adventures

In the very infant moments of 2007 I find myself vaulted into a year of adventure.

Up to this point, so many things in my life have been very familiar -- everything from the seasonal cycle and pattern of the school year, to the faces and voices I know so well. I'm leaving winter to re-experience summer, and with Literary Theory still fresh in my mind, I can't help but think what Northrop Frye would say about the archetypal symbolism present in this shift of seasons.

But in a few days, everything is about to become new and interesting again; I'll be experiencing different climates, seasons, people, dialects, cultures, schools, news, food, etc. Despite all that I have studied and researched, I am about to vault myself into the unknown. It's kind of a sublime feeling.

A few days ago I began posting to my blog, and I started writing the entry I'm publishing below. At the time of writing, I was in Vancouver, visiting family. I didn't think it was the kind of material appropriate for a first post, but in retrospect, it really gets at the anxiety I am experiencing as I prepare to leave home. Here goes...

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December 27, 2006

Today I caught myself in a moment, thinking of places I've been and dreaming of places I hope to see. I spent some time today walking along the sea wall in West Vancouver with my uncle Grant and my brother, Mike. As we worked our way through the obstacle course created by some fierce waves earlier this morning, I kept thinking about how even the most seemingly permanent things are susceptible to change. Mother Nature's metaphors have a funny way of reminding us that we are only very small creatures in her world.

Right now, I'm sitting in one of my favourite places in the world -- my grandma's house. As far as I am concerned, there are few guarantees in life: death, taxes, and a reliable stash of chocolates under my grandma's living room table. I love so many things about this place -- the industrial strength green carpet that has been walked on by every pair of feet in my family, the collection of books that continue to capture my interest as I grow older (and wiser?), the incredible shower pressure, Imperial cheddar cheese, my grandpa's blue chair, the family photos that bring life to the living room, my grandma's brownies, the smell of my grandma's perfume and the sound of her laugh, and of course, the routine "goodbye" waves from the front window as guests depart. Stories fill the air, evoking laughter and tears (and the occasional confession of youthful disobedience!), and serve as a strong reminder of my family's roots. I love the familiarity of my grandma's house -- the creak in the dining room floorboards, the steepness of the back steps (which, as a little girl, I used to run up and down wearing my grandma's oversize high heels), the smell of fresh BC air flowing into the house through the open Dutch door, and of course, the aforementioned stash of chocolate.

I think the reason I love my grandma's house so much is that for my entire life it has been a hub for family gatherings, and the walls radiate a family history that began over 60 years ago when my grandpa began building the house with his own hands. It just feels like home. If anywhere is a persistent home, it would have to be this place. As I prepare to travel, I keep memories close to me, and when I feel like I need some "home," I'll put myself into the places that have nurtured me and shaped my life.

With all this in mind, I find myself wondering if New Zealand (or any place other than Alberta) will ever be "home" -- and the idea of home becomes increasingly complex when a person begins to break it down. Home is not simply a place where you "hang your hat," but rather, as Leah reminded me through the words of Irshad Manji, "home is where our dignity lives." I'm sure as my travels continue -- this year and for the rest of my life -- I will revisit and re-evaluate my personal understanding of home.

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As centrifugal forces take me away from my comfort zones, I'll ground myself with my most prized moments. Over the past couple days I have realized how challenging it is to pack all the tangible things I think I will need for 7 months abroad, but through this arduous task I am actively reminding myself to pack the less material (but more important) things -- my memories.

Thanks for reading,

L.