Aitutaki

On One Foot Island with a Steinlager. Exile Island in the background.


The Air Rarotonga plane ride from Rarotonga to Aitutaki was approximately 45 minutes long, and carried about 15 passengers. Aitutaki is famous for its pristine lagoon (a lagoon is separated from the ocean by a low sandbank or coral reef, which means that the waters inside the lagoon are ideal for swimming and snorkeling because in most cases no big creatures (sharks!) can get in). Also, the current is much calmer so it is like swimming in a huge pool. I’ve spent 3 nights on Aitutaki…including one very interesting night that made me appreciate the modern world much more than I might have to this point…

Here is an excerpt from my journal about my one BAD experience on Aitutaki:

I’ve spent the last hour looking through my Lonely Planet guide and travel brochures to find a way to get out of here. Reasons to leave:

1) the beach hut is MUCH less glamourous and adventurous than it sounds. It is $45/night for a reason.
2) Mosquitoes, geckoes, flies...and a cockroach IN my bed.
3) Can’t see anything (writing with my only light – a mini-booklight).
4) The bathroom/shower was by far the most disgusting experience I’ve ever endured, and is likely the most negative highlight of my trip for the following reasons:

a. The taps have no handles, and the cold one was the only one that would budge;
b. The drain backed up, so I was ankle-deep in cold, dirty water;
c. I had two cockroaches the size of small children floating in the back-up;
d. Then I had two geckoes try to hop in for a bath;
e. The window had no cover, so anyone could see in. Opted to wear my bathing suit;
f. Ants – EVERYWHERE. Most concentrated around some sort of carcass that they were devouring in the corner of the shower room;
g. No place to hang/place my things;
h. No tiles on the floor, just plywood covered in some plastic.
i. The toilet room was very sketchy, and building a nest wasn’t an option because there was no toilet paper;
j. Etc.

5) Disgusting bathroom is very far away. I’d rather pee my pants. I’m sure others have done so.
6) They ran out of water and I am thirsty.
7) Despite the advertised bug netting, there are several holes inviting creatures of the night into my humble abode. I caught some kind of awful bug trying to burrow itself into me.

Basically, this was not the island paradise experience I was expecting.

With a little swipe of the MasterCard I got the hell out of there, and upgraded my room to a beachfront hut with running water, a kitchen, bathroom, and private deck with a great view of the lagoon. Much better. However, the upgrade was more than I had budgeted, so I opted to leave the island a day early. I’m glad I stayed to enjoy the lagoon cruise – an unforgettable experience.

The day-long lagoon cruise had several highlights. First, we stopped at Akaiami, a motu (small island) where there are some beach huts worth $600/NZD a night! This is where the Survivor exiles were sent once their crew voted them off. From Akaiami we sailed a bit further to an ideal spot for snorkeling and I saw some enormous clams! The corals and fish were incredible. While we were snorkeling our hosts/band/chefs were preparing a delicious lunch with fresh fruit, salads, and BBQ fish and chicken. We sailed along to One Foot Island where I had my passport stamped, sipped a cold Steinlager while circling the island, and stopped to watch some of the filming for the British version of Survivor, “Shipwrecked.”

I have officially lost all faith in reality TV (not that I had much in the first place); once I saw the cue cards and the proximity to the outside world any intrigue evaporated. The show(s) have been good for the Cooks in many ways, boosting employment and the economy, however I think the saddest realization came when I was walking around the island and noticed all the traces of humanity…not only the trading post that sells beer and food, but the cigarette butts and garbage. The Americans started here, and the Brits are just about finished, and next up are the French and Germans who are going to settle in for their own versions of the “stranded on a desert island” type show. During my travels I met one of the contestants of “Shipwrecked”, and I also visited with the sound mixer, so I’ve learned some of the fascinating inside. Trust me, it’s all as fake as you can imagine.

With all this said, I still think that Aitutaki had some of the most spectacular views. I’ll never forget the infant palm tree in the middle of the water, elevated by a sandbar, just begging for me to swim up for a visit.

On the way back to the main island our multi-talented entertainers had a great show in store for us – hermit crab races! Unbeknownst to us passengers our crew had gathered 12 hermit crabs from the beach while we were exploring. They set up an elaborate obstacle course and then collected bets – would you believe I won! I never win, but I made $12 on the most unsuspecting crab who had a great desire to escape the confines of some flippers and rope. I was even asked to blow the horn to start the next race (see the posted photo album).

Motus, reality TV, Steinlager, palm trees, BBQ lunch, snorkeling, and hermit crabs --now imagine all of this taking place in waters so turquoise and clear that you have to remind yourself you are still on Earth.

I met a really nice Kiwi couple on vacation at the Paradise Cove. They invited me to their patio to watch the rest of the sunset over a cold beer (which turned into a few, which turned into some Malibu...). The sunset was beautiful and the beer was refreshing, and after some singing (including my butchering of "Oh Canada") and stories I was ready for the short stumble to my beach hut.

One more post from the Cooks to come…

L.